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Post by guitfiddler on Feb 4, 2020 22:30:47 GMT -6
I have found many brands of XLR connectors for making my own XLR’s on Amazon. Are any of these brands good? Or should I just stick to Neutrik with gold pins? I’m looking for decent connectors to go with my Mogami and Canare cable.
Neewer brand MFL brand EBXYA brand/I like having the different ring colors for color coded cables.
Do you think it would hurt the sound quality of the cable if I went with one of these brands?
I can’t do links from my Amazon App, annoying.
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Post by winetree on Feb 4, 2020 23:26:20 GMT -6
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Post by svart on Feb 5, 2020 8:29:33 GMT -6
I have found many brands of XLR connectors for making my own XLR’s on Amazon. Are any of these brands good? Or should I just stick to Neutrik with gold pins? I’m looking for decent connectors to go with my Mogami and Canare cable. Neewer brand MFL brand EBXYA brand/I like having the different ring colors for color coded cables. Do you think it would hurt the sound quality of the cable if I went with one of these brands? I can’t do links from my Amazon App, annoying. Neewer is a chinese rebrander. They sell all kinds of A/V products. Some good, some bad. Never heard of the others, but I'd bet that they're the same. I think you'd be best served by buying a couple of each and seeing them up close. I've found that chinese-rebrand connectors, even from the same resellers, can vary wildly from batch to batch and part to part because they don't manufacture the parts themselves and just buy whatever is cheapest. Back before Alibaba and all the direct-from-china sales sites, I found a place in china that sold TRS and XLR connectors in bulk, for about 0.10$ a piece. I bought them by the hundreds to outfit my studio with the first patchbays. Even in the batches of connectors there were about 1-5% of them that couldn't be used. Some of the rest needed to have their sleeves soldered to the base because they'd turn and not make good connections, and so forth. Since most of these have been installed and never moved, it worked fine for me, but I wouldn't trust them to necessarily stand up to regular abuse. Unfortunately, I later bought another batch of connectors from the same place that turned out to be complete junk. Now that Chinese sellers have become savvy to the fact that they can sell their wares for a lot more than they had previously, there are no deals like this to be found anymore. I've used GLS like Winetree has, and still do, although I've since been slowly moving to Neutrik/Mogami cabling that I make so I've been using them less and less. I'd say they're about the same quality as the connectors on the cheapest cables at Guitar Center and even though they generally *look* like Neutriks, they do not have the same superior contact arrangement as Neutrik. Their connectors are the same chinese types as Neewer are, but either from a reliable source or they do QA on the connectors. Their prices have been a little high the last few years since they've gained traction in the market. Their stuff is very usable workhorse products, but their connectors are a little pricey if you don't take advantage of their sales. you can find NOS Neutriks on Ebay if you look hard enough that can sometimes rival their non-sale prices. What I've found with cheap connectors is that the metal case is usually the same between all of them. The plastic parts are where the real differences start. The actual pins/sockets are another place where things can be hit/miss. Some of the really cheap ones (especially TRS types) will have pins offset, rings/sleeves that will spin freely, the plastic will have flashing all over it, and sometimes the clamp/stress reliever will not clamp down well or the rubber will pop out the back when you tighten it. Also, the plastic will deform quickly when heated so the chance of ruining a connector is much higher. I haven't had too much issue with the connector plating. The cheap ones are just hard tin plated. Overall, if you need a billion connectors, are willing to put up with some possible aggravation, and aren't running sound on tour with them, then they'll be fine. If you need absolute reliability and peace of mind, go Neutrik.
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Post by mdmitch2 on Feb 5, 2020 10:00:22 GMT -6
Amphenol are good and usually cheaper than neutrik (check Redco). For fixed installations you can probably use cheapo connectors, but I avoid them for anything that will be plugged/unplugged frequently.... too many failures, and sometimes it’s not as straightforward as you might think when they fail....ie they seem okay with a quick sound check, and you don’t notice until you listen to your recorded tracks later .
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Post by guitfiddler on Feb 5, 2020 21:07:41 GMT -6
Thanks guys. Yeah, I've used just about every brand you could imagine over the years, Mogami and Canare are my cable goto's, but the XLR connectors have me baffled. Thanks for the contributions.
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Post by johneppstein on Feb 6, 2020 12:16:02 GMT -6
I vastly prefer Switchcraft to Neutrik. Assembly of the Switchcraft connector is admittedly a bit of a PITA, especially the set screw strain relief, but it's MUCH more reliable than the easy to assemble (and equally easy to loosen inadvertently) Neutrik strain relief. On a number of occasions I've had lead singers with hand held mics nervously fiddle with the unsecured* Neutrik clamp ring and loosen it enough so that the cable is no longer firmly secure, resulting in cable failure. A really stupid design IMO. Sacrifice of reliability for convenience. OTOH the Switchcraft strain relief is 100% reliable, especially if you secure the set screws with a drop of nail polish. I like the Switchcraft inserts a little better, too.
They do cost a little more...
* - no way to secure it. Smart!
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Feb 14, 2020 18:49:47 GMT -6
I vastly prefer Switchcraft to Neutrik. Assembly of the Switchcraft connector is admittedly a bit of a PITA, especially the set screw strain relief, but it's MUCH more reliable than the easy to assemble (and equally easy to loosen inadvertently) Neutrik strain relief. On a number of occasions I've had lead singers with hand held mics nervously fiddle with the unsecured* Neutrik clamp ring and loosen it enough so that the cable is no longer firmly secure, resulting in cable failure. A really stupid design IMO. Sacrifice of reliability for convenience. OTOH the Switchcraft strain relief is 100% reliable, especially if you secure the set screws with a drop of nail polish. I like the Switchcraft inserts a little better, too.
They do cost a little more...
* - no way to secure it. Smart! Man John I can’t disagree except to say everything you hate about the Neutrik are why I love them when somehow a cable needs to be repaired on the fly and done yesterday day !
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Post by Bob Olhsson on Feb 14, 2020 20:20:00 GMT -6
According to the live sound and motion picture production mixers I know, Switchcraft connectors need to be repaired a lot less often than the others.
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Post by johneppstein on Feb 14, 2020 21:17:21 GMT -6
I vastly prefer Switchcraft to Neutrik. Assembly of the Switchcraft connector is admittedly a bit of a PITA, especially the set screw strain relief, but it's MUCH more reliable than the easy to assemble (and equally easy to loosen inadvertently) Neutrik strain relief. On a number of occasions I've had lead singers with hand held mics nervously fiddle with the unsecured* Neutrik clamp ring and loosen it enough so that the cable is no longer firmly secure, resulting in cable failure. A really stupid design IMO. Sacrifice of reliability for convenience. OTOH the Switchcraft strain relief is 100% reliable, especially if you secure the set screws with a drop of nail polish. I like the Switchcraft inserts a little better, too.
They do cost a little more...
* - no way to secure it. Smart! Man John I can’t disagree except to say everything you hate about the Neutrik are why I love them when somehow a cable needs to be repaired on the fly and done yesterday day ! I never need a cable repaired that quickly - I always carry spares. Usually more spares than I expect to need. And I'd rather use a cable that's far less likely to fail in the first place. I've had too many Neutrik strain reliefs fail to ever really trust them.
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Post by EmRR on Feb 15, 2020 7:03:39 GMT -6
I tend to favor Switchcraft, as John.
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Post by johneppstein on Feb 17, 2020 18:53:53 GMT -6
And I really don't find the Switchcraft to be that much more difficult to assemble. And not that much slower at all - not really slower at all once you're used to them.
The two operations that take the most time are stripping the cable and soldering.
Since I favor Belden 8402 and 8412, especially for cables used live, the stripping is the most difficult and time consuming part by far - but the cable itself almost never fails, even when run over by a heavy road case or amp rack.
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Post by jeremygillespie on Feb 18, 2020 6:12:23 GMT -6
Neutrik cable ends and panel mounts for me. Not a fan of working with switchcraft and I’ve never had a problem with the strain relief. I actually think it works better than the switchcraft without putting an unnessecary pinch in the cable end. Canare quad cable.
I’ve dealt with some of the cheaper knockoff Neutrik types and they can be pretty awful. Sometimes you can’t even get the connectors to seat properly or get them apart after they are seated. Sometimes you just need to buck up and pay the price for something that’s going to work correctly.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2020 11:48:08 GMT -6
I cannot stand the rubber rings Neutrik uses on the female connectors. Pain in the ass to get all the way in on like 75% of my gear/mics. I dig the Redco connectors. I've defaulted to those on all my snakes and haven't had an issue yet.
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Post by svart on Feb 18, 2020 16:21:48 GMT -6
Man, Ya'll are crazy. Switchcraft are horrid. Cannot stand them. Seen a few of them get pulled apart because the crimp/clamp fingers can't hold tight enough. With Neutrik and their Amphenol copies, at least when you tug on the cable, it pulls the tri-grip into cone and grips even tighter.
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Post by johneppstein on Feb 18, 2020 22:45:15 GMT -6
Man, Ya'll are crazy. Switchcraft are horrid. Cannot stand them. Seen a few of them get pulled apart because the crimp/clamp fingers can't hold tight enough. With Neutrik and their Amphenol copies, at least when you tug on the cable, it pulls the tri-grip into cone and grips even tighter. Crimp - clamp fingers?
Switchcraft doesn't use fingers - the use two semicircular metal half clamps that compress the rubber end cap. Reliable as hell unless you use really skinny cable - which is what heat shrink is for.
With Neutrik they hold OK until a lead singer with the fidgets gets hold of the mic and starts playing with the plastic end cap, which releases the clamp.
I don't like connectors that do not require tools to disassemble.
You may be a great studio gear builder but I suspect you don't do much in the way of live sound. And that's where the rubber hits the road concerning cable reliability.
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Post by drbill on Feb 19, 2020 10:18:33 GMT -6
I've gravitated over to Neutrik & the Redco connectors over the years. Happy with both of them.
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Post by jeremygillespie on Feb 19, 2020 20:50:31 GMT -6
Man, Ya'll are crazy. Switchcraft are horrid. Cannot stand them. Seen a few of them get pulled apart because the crimp/clamp fingers can't hold tight enough. With Neutrik and their Amphenol copies, at least when you tug on the cable, it pulls the tri-grip into cone and grips even tighter. Crimp - clamp fingers?
Switchcraft doesn't use fingers - the use two semicircular metal half clamps that compress the rubber end cap. Reliable as hell unless you use really skinny cable - which is what heat shrink is for.
With Neutrik they hold OK until a lead singer with the fidgets gets hold of the mic and starts playing with the plastic end cap, which releases the clamp.
I don't like connectors that do not require tools to disassemble.
You may be a great studio gear builder but I suspect you don't do much in the way of live sound. And that's where the rubber hits the road concerning cable reliability.
I get that - I don’t work in live situations other than plunking on a guitar or bass every now and again. Neutrik works great in the studio. The ts and trs switchcraft connectors are the biggest pain in the ass to deal with if you’re ever going to use them more than on the cable they are on. You’ve got to pry the 2 grip clamps off the cable, and half the time they snap off after more than 2 changes. Just not worth the pain in the arse to me.
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Post by guitfiddler on Feb 19, 2020 21:18:33 GMT -6
What company do you purchase your Canare or Mogami bulk cable from?
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Post by jeremygillespie on Feb 19, 2020 23:04:07 GMT -6
What company do you purchase your Canare or Mogami bulk cable from? Redco
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Post by ragan on Feb 20, 2020 1:01:00 GMT -6
I bought my first bunch of Amphenol connectors for the price...I stayed cause I like them so much. Both TRS and XLR. In use, they're equivalent to Neutrik for to me. Rugged, solid. In assembly I vastly prefer them to Neutrik.
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Post by mdmitch2 on Feb 20, 2020 7:59:38 GMT -6
What company do you purchase your Canare or Mogami bulk cable from? Markertek has good prices and color variety for canare.
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Post by johneppstein on Feb 20, 2020 13:59:29 GMT -6
Crimp - clamp fingers?
Switchcraft doesn't use fingers - the use two semicircular metal half clamps that compress the rubber end cap. Reliable as hell unless you use really skinny cable - which is what heat shrink is for.
With Neutrik they hold OK until a lead singer with the fidgets gets hold of the mic and starts playing with the plastic end cap, which releases the clamp.
I don't like connectors that do not require tools to disassemble.
You may be a great studio gear builder but I suspect you don't do much in the way of live sound. And that's where the rubber hits the road concerning cable reliability.
I get that - I don’t work in live situations other than plunking on a guitar or bass every now and again. Neutrik works great in the studio. The ts and trs switchcraft connectors are the biggest pain in the ass to deal with if you’re ever going to use them more than on the cable they are on. You’ve got to pry the 2 grip clamps off the cable, and half the time they snap off after more than 2 changes. Just not worth the pain in the arse to me. Well, you're entitled to your view. I've NEVER had problems with Switchcraft's TS and TRS connectors, and never broken a strain relief clamp on them. The brass MIL spec connectors are a bit of a PITA, but I get around that by soldering directly to the connectore and throwing away the little eyelet clips and screws.
I would NEVER use a Neutrik TS on a guitar cable - I've seen the strain relief let go too many times.
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Post by Ward on Mar 4, 2020 10:15:35 GMT -6
Switchcraft forever. I've tried them all. They all break. But Switchcraft break the least and tend to last 25 years or more
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Mar 4, 2020 17:22:50 GMT -6
I get that - I don’t work in live situations other than plunking on a guitar or bass every now and again. Neutrik works great in the studio. The ts and trs switchcraft connectors are the biggest pain in the ass to deal with if you’re ever going to use them more than on the cable they are on. You’ve got to pry the 2 grip clamps off the cable, and half the time they snap off after more than 2 changes. Just not worth the pain in the arse to me. Well, you're entitled to your view. I've NEVER had problems with Switchcraft's TS and TRS connectors, and never broken a strain relief clamp on them. The brass MIL spec connectors are a bit of a PITA, but I get around that by soldering directly to the connectore and throwing away the little eyelet clips and screws.
I would NEVER use a Neutrik TS on a guitar cable - I've seen the strain relief let go too many times.
That has as much to do with the choice of cable as the Neutrik connectors!
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Mar 4, 2020 17:25:17 GMT -6
What company do you purchase your Canare or Mogami bulk cable from? Markertek has good prices and color variety for canare. Markertek has decent prices, but REDCO prices are better than my friends and family discount at a certain distributor that I once worked for.
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