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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2021 7:06:38 GMT -6
I guess technically speaking this is "DIY", anyway I've bought some GIK top of the line room treatment and it's coming later this week. Issue is some of these panels are 150mm all in one absorbers, bass traps, diffusers and scatter plates which weigh a ton. Even some of the fabric only 100mm panels were causing flex on plasterboard so I'm not looking forward to figuring this one out.
So how does one attach these to walls without joist's exactly? Plasterboard screws definitely don't cut it. I suppose I could just buy some more stands I suppose, still any advice is very much appreciated.
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Post by svart on May 25, 2021 8:10:43 GMT -6
How thick is the drywall? Generally 1/2" drywall is very strong and shouldn't bow. Something with 150mm of prominence from the wall face shouldn't cause much levering effect on normal drywall thicknesses.
Normally you'd use a "hollow wall anchor" of some type. Either the expanding metal types or the screw-in plastic types. They usually have a stated weight bearing spec on the packages. I've never had one pull out and I've never had drywall bow or get pulled down by hanging stuff, but I have broken a few of the smaller plastic anchors by not being careful about screwing them in.
Personally I prefer the screw-in types over the push-in types.
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Post by ragan on May 25, 2021 8:50:48 GMT -6
Do you mean drywall/Sheetrock/gypsum type material or actual lath and plaster? Or something else? Either way, I’d echo what svart said. Anchors used correctly will work. The toggle bolt style typically have higher weight ratings but they’re a pain in the ass and pretty imprecise since you have to drill a large hole for the toggle head to get through but the actual machine screw which activates it is much smaller. Screw in anchors can be annoying if you don’t have a decent touch with them (and they don’t work for lath and plaster). They can buckle and strip or get loose if the hole isn’t just the right size or you mess with them too much. If you haven’t had much experience with them, I’d get one or two of those little squares of drywall they sell for patching and install a few anchors in it. It’ll give you a feel for how they work and how far to go when tightening. You only get one shot at the exact spot you want in your actual wall. |
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2021 10:03:15 GMT -6
svart , I've been using metal RAWL plugs for various other relatively heavy stuff around the house. The depth of plasterboard generally changes dependant on the room, an alcove for example is rather thin. Regular non stud walls are about 20mm I believe? Anything over 20KG's though and I've always gone for a joist just in case. The old house had rather crap and thin plasterboard hence the reason it bowed. ragan , plasterboard is slightly harder drywall AFAIK.. Yeah agreed, RAWL's are anchors the split with an injector tool.. I think what I'm concerned about is it's not just one piece of treatment, there's two side by side on the back wall which isn't load bearing hence no joists or anything. Appreciate the advice everyone.
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Post by Tbone81 on May 25, 2021 10:49:04 GMT -6
I have really shitty drywall in my house. It’s unreal how bad it is. You can pull drywall anchors out with you bare fingers. Solution: nice 4” wood planks, stained and clear coated, screw those into the wall (on the stud) and then hang the bass traps to those using cleats. Looks great and no worries that things will will fly off the wall if someone slams a door too hard.
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2021 14:29:06 GMT -6
ragan , yep same here joists are crossbeams that connect to a vertical load bearer which is usually known as the "stud". Some of the treatment (like ceiling bass traps will be connected to the joists) which is quite difficult because it's a short bridge between the joist overlap (at the back wall) and drywall protrusion. Then there's the issue of the actual wall panels, I have stud detectors / metal detectors etc. etc. and there isn't a stud (anywhere useful at least) because essentially it's a fake partition wall and as said it doesn't bare any load. Irrelevant of detectors (because they can be a bit wonky) you can just knock on a wall until it sounds "dense" and locate a stud. Unfortunately again I didn't find anything.. Tbone81, yeah I've seen them do that when wall mounting TV's when they aren't attached to a stud. I'll give it a go..
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Post by gouge on May 26, 2021 2:59:55 GMT -6
The commercial method to fix heavy acoustic treatments is French cleats or split battens.
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