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Post by hadaja on Mar 14, 2024 16:50:48 GMT -6
Hey there.
I like to get scratches and stuff off my guitars .
I am getting too old to do this manually.
There must be a better way!
What is tool equipment do I need to bring the gloss finish back on my electric and acoustics.
Dumb it down for me as I am hopeless as a DIY handyman !!
The manual process is killing my arms and I dont know how effective it is?
Any suggestions on technique, Equipment, and actual products cutting compounds etc would be appreciated.
Please feel free to show before and after photos.
Thanks guys.
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Post by Ned Ward on Mar 18, 2024 9:30:17 GMT -6
I have the FLEX orbital polisher I use on my car. You'll want to use potentially a cutting compound, then a finishing compound and then a wax. Adam's Polishes has several smaller polishers that would let you get in all the areas. You can check with them if your finish is safe with their products, but if it's a poly finish, yes. Not sure on nitro.
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Post by okcrecording on Mar 18, 2024 9:49:48 GMT -6
I have the FLEX orbital polisher I use on my car. You'll want to use potentially a cutting compound, then a finishing compound and then a wax. Adam's Polishes has several smaller polishers that would let you get in all the areas. You can check with them if your finish is safe with their products, but if it's a poly finish, yes. Not sure on nitro. Just to add to this, get a polishing pad made to use with a drill and mount the pad to a drill press so you can use both hands. Be careful and go slow, use low grit abrasives. |
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Post by trappist on Mar 19, 2024 13:17:27 GMT -6
Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax is what is used on the Smithsonian instrument collection.
Get it on Amazon. I get mine at my local WoodCraft store. I use it on my woodwind mouthpieces for a polished stage look.
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Post by hadaja on Mar 20, 2024 5:03:23 GMT -6
I have the FLEX orbital polisher I use on my car. You'll want to use potentially a cutting compound, then a finishing compound and then a wax. Adam's Polishes has several smaller polishers that would let you get in all the areas. You can check with them if your finish is safe with their products, but if it's a poly finish, yes. Not sure on nitro. Just to add to this, get a polishing pad made to use with a drill and mount the pad to a drill press so you can use both hands. Be careful and go slow, use low grit abrasives. Okay i bought a pad pack to go on the end of my drill. Do you have to wet the area before your start or do you wet the pad and then apply cutting compund on the pad? |
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Post by okcrecording on Mar 21, 2024 22:46:30 GMT -6
It really depends on the compound you are using. I don't normally add water, especially if it's a vintage instrument.
I use colortone polishing compounds from stew mac in varying grits and i apply them with a 100% cotton rag or with the polishing pad. Once it spreads thin it begins to dry and then you can begin removing it with medium to light pressure until it shines. Wipe excess off and move to another area. Always be aware of generating any heat on the surface of the finish. Heat is your enemy. If it gets warm stop and wait until it cools. You risk burning through thin laquer finishes.
Additionally, when I begin polishing I will test an area with the finest grit compound in the set (swirl remover) and see how the finish reacts. If it still looks scratched or dull, I move to a coarser medium grit and try that.
Before you begin, make sure the surface is clean of debris. This can make your situation worse. Naphtha is great for this.
Hope this helps.
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Post by okcrecording on Mar 22, 2024 6:15:32 GMT -6
I should also mention, if you are using multiple grits of compounds, use one pad per grit. Use one pad for medium grit, change to a new pad for a lighter grit. Label each pad so you don't get them mixed up.
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