mrcel0
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by mrcel0 on Nov 12, 2024 15:50:09 GMT -6
Hi everyone i’m in dire need of some advice, long story short this has been an issue with my gap premier 73 ever since I got it second-hand, my XLR cable is stuck in my only pre amp, I was playing around with using it on some stems last night and I completely forgot it has an issue where my XLR cables seem to get stuck and the latch is no help. The only way I was able to switch it out was because it was a neutrik connector which you can easily twist off but I put a live wire cable in last night now it’s completely jammed.
i took the top off the pre, been pulling / pushing and used a screwdriver to try wedging space but it’s not budging, i’ve been thinking about maybe cutting the cable could I splice it? is it even possible to splice a xlr male to trs into xlr male to female using two wires? or is there some way to try and remove this thing better than what i’ve tried? I fear I might have to just use the unbalanced cable
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Post by copperx on Nov 12, 2024 16:06:29 GMT -6
The exact same thing happened to my GAP Premier 73, so it must be a common issue. I had to pry the lock with a flat screwdriver and break it. Now the XLR cable doesn't lock, so I'll have to buy a replacement connector. I'll make it a Neutrik this time.
Use a flashlight to see clearly and a long thin screwdriver to break the pin. Moving the pin out of the way didn't work for me. You'll have to open the case so you get access.
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ericn
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Balance Engineer
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Post by ericn on Nov 12, 2024 16:08:46 GMT -6
Hi everyone i’m in dire need of some advice, long story short this has been an issue with my gap premier 73 ever since I got it second-hand, my XLR cable is stuck in my only pre amp, I was playing around with using it on some stems last night and I completely forgot it has an issue where my XLR cables seem to get stuck and the latch is no help. The only way I was able to switch it out was because it was a neutrik connector which you can easily twist off but I put a live wire cable in last night now it’s completely jammed. i took the top off the pre, been pulling / pushing and used a screwdriver to try wedging space but it’s not budging, i’ve been thinking about maybe cutting the cable could I splice it? is it even possible to splice a xlr male to trs into xlr male to female using two wires? or is there some way to try and remove this thing better than what i’ve tried? I fear I might have to just use the unbalanced cable With the unit unplugged from the outlet try squirting some WD40 around the where the 2 connectors meet, let it sit for about 30 min. And try to wiggle it out. Then if it works replace that jack! |
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Post by kcatthedog on Nov 12, 2024 16:40:00 GMT -6
If that doesn’t work, any tech should be able to open it up and remove the xlr connector and replace it, cut the cable and replace the cable connector.
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Post by jeremygillespie on Nov 12, 2024 16:40:46 GMT -6
Or just leave it in there, cut the cable so it’s a foot long and solder a female xlr on it.
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Post by christopher on Nov 12, 2024 17:22:48 GMT -6
Live this happens a lot, so many snakes are cheapest ever. It’s common to cut open the locks on XLRs before plugging. Lots of snakes have XLR’s cutoff at venues all over. The worst is when you are live and trying to move a stuck vocal to a working channel 🤣.. panic lol (meant to say you can try and fish it open with a paper clip.. it’s been a while)
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mrcel0
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by mrcel0 on Nov 13, 2024 11:19:49 GMT -6
The exact same thing happened to my GAP Premier 73, so it must be a common issue. I had to pry the lock with a flat screwdriver and break it. Now the XLR cable doesn't lock, so I'll have to buy a replacement connector. I'll make it a Neutrik this time. Use a flashlight to see clearly and a long thin screwdriver to break the pin. Moving the pin out of the way didn't work for me. You'll have to open the case so you get access. When I open the case, I can't see how to access the lock, it looks like it's covered by a plastic piece. Did you remove additional pieces inside the case to get access? I broke the top of the silver lock accidentally so I don't have much leverage |
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Post by copperx on Nov 13, 2024 11:28:10 GMT -6
The exact same thing happened to my GAP Premier 73, so it must be a common issue. I had to pry the lock with a flat screwdriver and break it. Now the XLR cable doesn't lock, so I'll have to buy a replacement connector. I'll make it a Neutrik this time. Use a flashlight to see clearly and a long thin screwdriver to break the pin. Moving the pin out of the way didn't work for me. You'll have to open the case so you get access. When I open the case, I can't see how to access the lock, it looks like it's covered by a plastic piece. Did you remove additional pieces inside the case to get access? I broke the top of the silver lock accidentally so I don't have much leverage
Argh! I can't recall exactly what got it free, but I remember pushing the screwdriver from the inside (?). I do remember that even though the lock was free, there was still something grabbing onto the cable, and I couldn't figure out what was it. When I was able to pull the cable out with force, something else in the connector came apart -- like there was a malfunction in the locking mechanism and I dislodged something else besides the locking pin. I used significant force.
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mrcel0
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by mrcel0 on Nov 13, 2024 12:21:23 GMT -6
Or just leave it in there, cut the cable so it’s a foot long and solder a female xlr on it. I assume that I can do this but just wanted to double check I have xlr male to trs, so cut the 1/4 part and solder a female xlr end on it? |
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Nov 13, 2024 12:27:56 GMT -6
Or just leave it in there, cut the cable so it’s a foot long and solder a female xlr on it. I assume that I can do this but just wanted to double check I have xlr male to trs, so cut the 1/4 part and solder a female xlr end on it? Exactly, but first I would suggest posting a picture of the jack locking mechanism to Dropbox and give us a link, maybe we can come up with a better idea. |
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mrcel0
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by mrcel0 on Nov 13, 2024 12:53:23 GMT -6
I assume that I can do this but just wanted to double check I have xlr male to trs, so cut the 1/4 part and solder a female xlr end on it? Exactly, but first I would suggest posting a picture of the jack locking mechanism to Dropbox and give us a link, maybe we can come up with a better idea. When I open the case, I can't see how to access the lock, it looks like it's covered by a plastic piece. Did you remove additional pieces inside the case to get access? I broke the top of the silver lock accidentally so I don't have much leverage Argh! I can't recall exactly what got it free, but I remember pushing the screwdriver from the inside (?). I do remember that even though the lock was free, there was still something grabbing onto the cable, and I couldn't figure out what was it. When I was able to pull the cable out with force, something else in the connector came apart -- like there was a malfunction in the locking mechanism and I dislodged something else besides the locking pin. I used significant force.
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ericn
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Balance Engineer
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Post by ericn on Nov 13, 2024 13:06:30 GMT -6
Exactly, but first I would suggest posting a picture of the jack locking mechanism to Dropbox and give us a link, maybe we can come up with a better idea. Argh! I can't recall exactly what got it free, but I remember pushing the screwdriver from the inside (?). I do remember that even though the lock was free, there was still something grabbing onto the cable, and I couldn't figure out what was it. When I was able to pull the cable out with force, something else in the connector came apart -- like there was a malfunction in the locking mechanism and I dislodged something else besides the locking pin. I used significant force.
OK from your pictures, getting an exact replacement for that PCB mounted jack could be a pain in the ass, BUT the only things I see mounted to that board is the jacks. If the 2 cables going to that board has enough slack I would probably remove the jacks and the board replace them both with new jacks with solder cups. If you can solder a new jack to a cable you should be able to do this. If the cable is to short for this it would be pretty simple to replace the internal cables from the other end. |
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Post by doubledog on Nov 13, 2024 15:52:53 GMT -6
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Post by copperx on Nov 13, 2024 16:05:58 GMT -6
You see that little metallic tab on the top portion of the connector? It looked exactly the same on mine after it broke. I took it off with pliers. My memory isn't that good regarding this because I tried EVERYTHING and I was pissed off, but now I remember that I pulled that damn thing off with pliers and that unlocked the cable.
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Nov 13, 2024 17:16:31 GMT -6
The problem with even trying to figure out a PCB mounted Jack is there are a ton of combinations of pin position. This is only made more difficult by the fact that manufacturers build these in batches so even if you were to go to the shelves of say a Neutrik & Switchcraft distributor and match the jack, which I have, you will A find many of the possibilities out of stock ( some versions are strictly made to OEM specs) B you will find there are sooo many possibilities that the time sink isn’t worth it. A good tech would do what I said above because he would be charging you for the time to find that jack, vs just grabbing a generic solder cup version if he doesn’t have the original part # and know it’s available. Seen it way to many times. |
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Post by doubledog on Nov 13, 2024 22:56:48 GMT -6
The problem with even trying to figure out a PCB mounted Jack is there are a ton of combinations of pin position. This is only made more difficult by the fact that manufacturers build these in batches so even if you were to go to the shelves of say a Neutrik & Switchcraft distributor and match the jack, which I have, you will A find many of the possibilities out of stock ( some versions are strictly made to OEM specs) B you will find there are sooo many possibilities that the time sink isn’t worth it. A good tech would do what I said above because he would be charging you for the time to find that jack, vs just grabbing a generic solder cup version if he doesn’t have the original part # and know it’s available. Seen it way to many times. for sure, I wouldn't try it myself. Just bypass the PCB (and optionally solder new caps across the new jack). easier all around. |
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mrcel0
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by mrcel0 on Nov 14, 2024 14:08:09 GMT -6
You see that little metallic tab on the top portion of the connector? It looked exactly the same on mine after it broke. I took it off with pliers. My memory isn't that good regarding this because I tried EVERYTHING and I was pissed off, but now I remember that I pulled that damn thing off with pliers and that unlocked the cable. I pulled the hell out of the silver tab with pliers and the plug finally came out! I’m sure the WD40 also helped. Thanks a bunch to everyone |
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