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Post by timmyboy on Aug 26, 2013 21:51:16 GMT -6
G'Day
Anyone know of any step by step build guides for the 51x Floorbox PSU? I've seen chungers very detailed photos for the older style PSU
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2013 23:58:16 GMT -6
Jeff should have a build guide on his site, especially if you bought it from him.
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Post by unit7 on Aug 27, 2013 4:27:28 GMT -6
Jeff should have a build guide on his site, especially if you bought it from him. Jeff's pics (to be used together w the Assembly aid: www.classicapi.com/catalog/images/FB-build/Floor-Box-Assembly-Aid-Rev_1.pdf) are in the 3rd post in the same thread (the PSU build thread) as Chunger's guide on GroupDIY, but it's not as detailed as Chunger's of course. Doubt if anyone would put that kind of effort in doing yet another guide... |
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Post by tonycamphd on Aug 27, 2013 21:02:55 GMT -6
the 51x psu double floor box was one of my first builds, it isn't detailed in the way most of Chungs stuff is(because his was build was pre floor box), but between that thread, and jeffs thread/pics and guide, you can do it. Just be meticulous and thorough, if you get stuck on something, think it through a little, if you cant work it out, email jeff, group diy folks, or someone here, people will gladly give you a hand. I asked jeff some of the dumbest questions ever when i started this stuff, he never even came remotely close to making me feel like the idiot that i'm sure i am lol! As a matter of fact, i notice that most diyer's don't act condescending toward fellow diyer's, it's a brotherhood  T |
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Post by timmyboy on Aug 28, 2013 7:58:27 GMT -6
I spent a good few hours today studying the schematic that chunger drew up. I followed all the wiring, matching it up with the photos of the finished build, and now feel like I have a very good understanding of the wiring. I then matched it all up to the photos of the floorbox psu, and realised that it's exactly the same, except that the floorbox looks like less work to do in terms of the led and fuse wiring. I'm actually going to be building the VPR version of the psu, so I'll need to check to see whether there is a difference in the wiring of the transformer. I definently agree that people are more than willing to help. I've already had someone let me know about a mistake that they made while building it.
I'm actually really looking forward to building this. I've just got to purchase a multimeter first. I've just spent a couple hundred on a new soldering iron, but I'm not sure how cheap I can get away with spending on a multimeter. I'm not sure what the benefits are of an expensive multimeter, or what the limitations are of a cheapo one
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2013 12:52:20 GMT -6
Why'd you spend so much on an iron? the Hakko FX888 is like 80 bucks and is more iron than you'll ever need. Sheeeeeeeit, half the DIY folks use that $20 radioshack joint that doesn't even have a temperature gauge. lol
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Post by timmyboy on Aug 28, 2013 15:12:38 GMT -6
I did buy the fx-888!! $189 here in Australia. I could only find one place that was selling it - as its discontinued now.
I am aware that the price is a bit inflated here in Australia - but it is for ALL pro audio gear aswell. I've been purchasing most bits of gear from the US and having it shipped to Australia - and saving money. But the hakko - I need a 230v version, not the 110v. So I have little choice.
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Post by tonycamphd on Aug 29, 2013 1:48:51 GMT -6
damn timmyboy, they hit you hard down there! I got a fluke 87v for a $150! if you use evilbay, you can score a deal??
good luck, let us know how you make out.
T
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Post by timmyboy on Aug 29, 2013 3:28:02 GMT -6
What I can't seem to figure out though is if a cheapo multimeter is inaccurate and going to cause me issues - or if the cheap one just has less issues. I know that a $150 multimeter will pay for itself with the amount of DIY I plan on doing. But even though I already own most of the tools I'm going to need - buying expensive soldering irons and multimeters is delaying me in being able to buy my first VP26s. I'm going to build an empty rack and power supply and not be able to test it out for a little while!
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Post by unit7 on Aug 29, 2013 7:45:55 GMT -6
I started doing kits from TB and cAPI this year. My old $15 DMM has been working fine sorting resistors, checking continuity and measuring volts, which is all I've done on these kits. TB's DD chorus needs an oscilloscope for calibration and that's quite a step up, so I left that to a pro. Jeff's CMRR adjustment on some of the cAPI kits also needs some proper measuring, but I managed to do that with my DAW and by making a special cable, so no need for a real high end DMM for me.
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Post by tonycamphd on Aug 29, 2013 14:34:11 GMT -6
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2013 10:15:21 GMT -6
there is Oscilloscope software you can get for your DAW. it's called Mexoscope or somethin' like that. it's a free plugin. it works great. it's not a real scope, but it beats payin' $150+ for a used on from ebay.
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Post by tonycamphd on Sept 2, 2013 10:33:26 GMT -6
there is Oscilloscope software you can get for your DAW. it's called Mexoscope or somethin' like that. it's a free plugin. it works great. it's not a real scope, but it beats payin' $150+ for a used on from ebay. thanx chuck! bram.smartelectronix.com/plugins.php?id=4 |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2013 23:21:29 GMT -6
That's the one!
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Post by horvitz on Sept 3, 2013 4:40:26 GMT -6
For software, I've also found the audioTester program at audiotester.de very useful. It's inexpensive at about $50, and I think there is a free trial period.
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Post by timmyboy on Sept 12, 2013 6:43:08 GMT -6
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