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Post by drew571 on Feb 5, 2017 21:07:25 GMT -6
And now for maple or rosewood?
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Post by Guitar on Feb 6, 2017 6:20:15 GMT -6
And now for maple or rosewood? That one always trips me up. On a strat I like both, but am more a maple fan. On my Jazz-style bass, I preferred rosewood, maple neck did not sound quite as full. On my Precision style bass, the maple neck is not going anywhere, such a fat sound. I suppose there is no easy answer to this age old question.
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Post by Bender on Feb 6, 2017 12:12:10 GMT -6
Yeh, it's all really preference right? I myself? Rosewood- so slick
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Post by Ward on Feb 7, 2017 10:01:47 GMT -6
Some basic common things about fretboard material:
1. Both Ebony and Maple are hardwoods, (note: rosewood is a semi-hardwood.) 2. Ebony is a slow dense growth wood and thus has more mass and tighter rings (although almost invisible due to an almost continuous growth pattern. 3. Maple is a fairly quick expansive growth wood and has much less mass and wider more open rings and growth patterns due to periods of rapid expansion, as is evidenced in the clearly defined ring patterns. 4. Maple is far more porous than ebony is although much less porous than either rosewood or mahogany, as wood families (groupings) are concerned. 5. Both types of wood affect the harmonic structure of the notes produced on an instrument. 6. Ebony will produce a more even harmonic structure and extend the high end harmonics due to it's dense 'rock like' state. 7. Maple tends to be somewhat scooped in tone with an emphasis on second to fourth order harmonics due to the somewhat porous nature of the wood. 8. Ebony can last up to 500 years without any finishing or treatment due to the tight pore nature of the wood. AS evidenced in violins and other hand held instruments that use the wood that are of this age. 9. Maple tends not to last as long and is prone to rotting if left unfinished or untreated, again as evidenced in instruments as little as 25 years of age.
Now the little bit from experience and opinion: 10. Maple is lower on the grading due to its ability to easily rot and discolor and the uneven nature of the tone and harmonic response. 11. Rosewood is considered a mid-grade wood as it favors lower order harmonics, imparts a darker tone than the other two, and requires regular maintenance such as the application of teak or linseed oil to prevent rotting 12. Ebony is the high end of fretboard material for many of the above reasons stated.
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Post by svart on Feb 7, 2017 12:16:25 GMT -6
I did see a video a few years back, a scientist set out to see if tonewood and other configurations made appreciable differences in guitar tones.
I can't seem to find the exact video, but the conclusion was that the wood did not make much difference, nor did the fingerboard material. It really came down to the string choice, fret material and configuration, configuration of nut and bridge and the coupling/attachment to the materials, and the pickups. Only hollow-bodies really had any significant contribution to the sound.
In other words, the play-ability matters much more than what it's made from.
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Post by jazznoise on Feb 8, 2017 4:54:00 GMT -6
Which is exactly what I think when I hear about dense heavy tonewoods. If I'm going to be practicing and gigging with a guitar, can it not be inhumanely heavy?
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Post by Ward on Feb 8, 2017 6:21:32 GMT -6
Which is exactly what I think when I hear about dense heavy tonewoods. If I'm going to be practicing and gigging with a guitar, can it not be inhumanely heavy? That all depends on how much tone you want. We can't let you have tone without back problems!! Just kidding. most of the weight is in the body of guitar and every pound matters. Whilst nothing really resonates like swamp ash or mahogany, there are chambered versions of guitar bodies now routinely used that can cut 30% to 50% of the body weight down. Of course if you're running an 8 string guitar with a Floyd Rose and 3 hum buckers and lots of hardware, you're adding weight that can't be controlled.
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Post by jazznoise on Feb 9, 2017 6:02:14 GMT -6
I don't buy the hype on woods for electronic instruments. There's a great video of a guy cutting lumps out of a guitar with a jigsaw and it sounds the same right down till it starts to look like a hockey stick. I think some people find heavy instruments satisfying - in the same way I enjoy playing with a relatively high action and string gauge. The 'Fight' is there for them. Some people don't like that. Neither is really about sonics.
2 pickups is more than enough, imo. Don't get me started on Floyd Roses. If you want pitch dives like that, buy a synth and cut your hair.
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Post by jimwilliams on Feb 9, 2017 10:31:11 GMT -6
Wood is everything here. Sure, you can make a plywood guitar but it won't sing like a dense mahogany/maple top Les Paul. If wood didn't make such a difference those plexy Dan Armstrong guitars would be collectable (maybe they are?)
I don't like the sound of a finished fingerboard. Maple requires it. My solid rosewood Telecaster came with a finished fingerboard, ruins the sound of that design. Stripped it off and that guitar came alive.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2017 18:58:35 GMT -6
So much is different taste that there might be no easy answer at all... As for the fingerboard and neck, i love my SKC Bogart to death for the ebonol and graphite. This bass provides me unbelievably even tone, zero sweet or dead spot differences, and on this one there is no wood at all, but extremely well thought artificial materials. Crazy good bass, although it behaves slightly different to most other basses when sliding upwards, but for sure worth it to try out. Would not trade for *any* bass. IMO Rickenbackers, MusicMans or Warwicks might be love-it-or-hate-it basses. I never got really warm with any of them, but know that others really love them. Most versatile i guess would be a PJ bass with Precision neck. I would prefer Rosewood, not naked maple fretboard. If one should fit it all and should not cost an arm or a leg. A JB neck IME can be very uncomfortable if you are used to a precision neck or any modern thinner D shape neck. I found the other way round much easier when i switched from JB to more modern or Precision-like necks. Although i can play with any neck, i prefer wider and thinner than JB any day of the week, and i can imagine this may be similar for the majority of players coming into the studio (of course depending on what kind of customers you have and if you are focussed on a particular style of music). As for quality replacement pickups, i really like Bartolinis the most, but again, i also play an EMG equipped one more or less regularly and like it also, just not as much. Hope, this helps anyhow in the decision process...
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Post by nnajar on Jun 27, 2017 1:57:47 GMT -6
P!
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Post by sean on Jul 1, 2017 11:29:00 GMT -6
I like short scale with flat wound strings myself...I have a '78 Mustang myself. It just depends on what you like and are playing. Easier to play as a guitar player as well, and it's not a sound everyone has. Most people who come into the studio will have a P or J bass so I like that I have a different option.
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Post by Ward on Jul 1, 2017 12:47:13 GMT -6
I know what you mean... the P bass is a conundrum for most of us.
It's a piece of junk that plays fantastic and sounds amazing.
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Post by jeremygillespie on Jul 3, 2017 11:25:21 GMT -6
A Mustang can be a great bass if you get a good one. Check out the bass on the Sara Bareilles record The Blessed Unrest. That's a Mustang with flats on it.
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Post by drew571 on Jul 12, 2017 18:31:39 GMT -6
Ended up picking up one of the new American professional p-basses. Sounds amazing. Came even more alive going through a ferrite di through the vp28 through a jlm la500.
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Post by Bender on Jan 12, 2019 13:35:46 GMT -6
I'm going to bring this thread back from the dead... I've recently gotten bitten by the GAS bug & saw these new American Performer mustang basses...anyone else see them in the wild yet? They're fairly new and though I usually buy used/vintage, with old mustang quality/prices from way back when this seems like a way better option. www.chicagomusicexchange.com/listing/fender-american-performer-mustang-bass-aubergine-pre-order/17404664I'm personally not into that eggplant color and instead I'm contemplating the arctic white or surfer green. I know some purists are NOT into the J bass pickup but that's just fine with me
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Post by pouletdegrains on Jan 13, 2019 16:09:19 GMT -6
I'm going to bring this thread back from the dead... I've recently gotten bitten by the GAS bug & saw these new American Performer mustang basses...anyone else see them in the wild yet? They're fairly new and though I usually buy used/vintage, with old mustang quality/prices from way back when this seems like a way better option. www.chicagomusicexchange.com/listing/fender-american-performer-mustang-bass-aubergine-pre-order/17404664I'm personally not into that eggplant color and instead I'm contemplating the arctic white or surfer green. I know some purists are NOT into the J bass pickup but that's just fine with me I considered a similar strategy last month and I ended up buying a '79 Musicmaster bass guitar (for 600 euros). IMO modern productions suffer from poor wood selection as companies cannot use the essences they were using before, especially for the fretboard. And I don't like medium jumbo frets, I find it hard to play perfectly in tune. My Musicmaster is light and play like a dream. The pickup is original, a Strat 6-pole one, and sounds surprisingly great, very Precision-ish. The bridge is tricky to set up, but now the action is super low and the guitar perfectly in tune. I would have preferred to buy a vintage Mustang, but prices are getting really high here in Europe.
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Post by Bender on Jan 13, 2019 16:53:43 GMT -6
I considered a similar strategy last month and I ended up buying a '79 Musicmaster bass guitar (for 600 euros). IMO modern productions suffer from poor wood selection as companies cannot use the essences they were using before, especially for the fretboard. And I don't like medium jumbo frets, I find it hard to play perfectly in tune. My Musicmaster is light and play like a dream. The pickup is original, a Strat 6-pole one, and sounds surprisingly great, very Precision-ish. The bridge is tricky to set up, but now the action is super low and the guitar perfectly in tune. I would have preferred to buy a vintage Mustang, but prices are getting really high here in Europe. wood aside, I just can't get past how cheap looking the musicmasters appear, finish and all. I definitely miss the chrome and the lack of a bridge adjustment + the spoty-ness of quality in the 70's on Fender in general + the combo of the prices you mentioned is making me lean modern anyways. Something to consider for sure.
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Post by pouletdegrains on Jan 14, 2019 9:52:50 GMT -6
I considered a similar strategy last month and I ended up buying a '79 Musicmaster bass guitar (for 600 euros). IMO modern productions suffer from poor wood selection as companies cannot use the essences they were using before, especially for the fretboard. And I don't like medium jumbo frets, I find it hard to play perfectly in tune. My Musicmaster is light and play like a dream. The pickup is original, a Strat 6-pole one, and sounds surprisingly great, very Precision-ish. The bridge is tricky to set up, but now the action is super low and the guitar perfectly in tune. I would have preferred to buy a vintage Mustang, but prices are getting really high here in Europe. wood aside, I just can't get past how cheap looking the musicmasters appear, finish and all. I definitely miss the chrome and the lack of a bridge adjustment + the spoty-ness of quality in the 70's on Fender in general + the combo of the prices you mentioned is making me lean modern anyways. Something to consider for sure. Yeah Musicmasters look cheap, I agree, but it is seen positively from an indie-rock/electronica perspective (my scene). Fenders from the 70s are definitively hit or miss. Some are really amazing though can compare with models from the 60s and will probably keep their value in the future. I even have seen Musicmasters and Mustangs with full birdseye maple neck.
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Post by jakeboy on Jan 23, 2019 9:13:58 GMT -6
I use my Hamer Cruisebass, which is an improved j-bass Hamer made for a while back in the late 90s. The 2tek bridge is rock solid and the bass is extremely easy to play. The original Duncan’s sound fine but I will have Aaron at Rumpel wind me some of his magic pickups soon for it. These Hamers are real sleepers...outstanding craftsmanship and quality made in a small shop. You can find them used for the price of an import Squier.
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Post by mattbroiler on Jun 28, 2019 6:17:28 GMT -6
I acquired a mim Fender Precision Bass Special deluxe series a few years ago it consists of a P bass style body neck and pickup with an added Jazz bridge pickup. This one features noiseless pickups and active electronics without an active/passive switch. I have a Rick4001 from early 80's and wanted a Fender Precision bass for studio/recording and the noiseless Precision/Jazz combination seemed most versatile. Most of the time I dial it over towards the P bass pickup or in the middle as I find the Jazz bridge pickup by itself is not as deep sounding without some tone tweaking. I am very happy with the sound and playability and it looks pretty too.
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Post by jakeboy on Sept 12, 2019 18:27:53 GMT -6
Delete
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 14, 2019 20:10:45 GMT -6
Jan 25, 2017 10:17:53 GMT -6 drew571 said: thanks for the tips. is there any down side of having a 5 string? Not really, I find them easier to shred because of the closer string placement & a little more versatile for fingerpicking or pick playing styles. Plus sometimes you just gotta hit that low B Which is virtually inaudible on most of today's consumer playback equipment. Much of which has difficulty with a plain ole low E.
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Post by donr on Oct 3, 2019 20:05:26 GMT -6
Don't listen to Ward . He's obviously been hitting the bottle tonight. Clearly. I've had nothing but trouble with recording and mixing MusicMan basses. Every one of them that come into the studio, I steer them to the P/J and the bassists end up offering me money or trade for it.. The thing with MusicMan Stingrays is the active electronics. You can't have those tone pots wide open. 'Way to much top and bottom. Start with them back and just add enough bottom and top to balance the mids. Martin Birch got a sound on my Stingray 4 string and I don't use any other settings.
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Post by Guitar on Oct 4, 2019 12:07:28 GMT -6
Coming back to this thread, I tend to veer in Martin's direction. My favored bass the past year or so has been the 5 string Ibanez SR405. It's got a wide neck with low action, is noiseless, and can get many varieties of tone. I just love playing it. The plan is to put some Bartolini pickups in there soon but the stock pickups are "Fine." The 5th string does get used on a regular basis.
It's all about the DI. I use a Wolfbox DI that I designed that puts standard $200 DI's to shame.
I am seriously looking at a Mustang or maybe a Gretsch short scale for bass #4, something is in the water, these seem to be trending right now.
P and J are old friends. I have them on backup for now. Mine are not "nice" though so that's a big part of it. They are cheap basses that I fixed up. If I had an American something or other it would probably get picked up more often. That X factor is a big thing about instruments. They sound great/fine. They're just a little funny looking and I "know" where all the flaws are/were. I guess I learned a lot on them though. How to play bass, at all.
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