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Post by tonycamphd on Oct 12, 2013 10:48:47 GMT -6
Dang those are nice ! They have wheels and built so freakn solid . I can't think of a third droid name .......R2D2 , C3PO and..........Steve ?? I like the 3 stooges better anyways . So where are you gonna place them ? Do you put them around the drum set ? Thanx scum! good question, they really sound amazing! you can go up and sing directly into them, or play your acoustic in front of them, and very audibly hear a kind of "sparkle"? hard to explain, but awesome! They are going to have the equivalent of R60 insulation absorbers on the backsides, i plan on surrounding my drum kit with the absorbers toward the kit, behind mics to gobble up reflections back into the mics, and hopefully block/diffuse direct sound back into the room mics(by taking longer to get there?) as to trick all the mics into hearing a bigger room? I'm also building a rolling absorber canopy out of aluminum, approx 8'x8', with 12" of cotton insulation on the lid, to remove the ceiling without killing the entire ceiling, it's all about making a 20'x 14'averagex 8' ceiling room, sound like ?'x ?'x ? ceiling?? remains to be seen lol! I have a lot of experimentation ahead, it's going to be fun, and i think i can pull it off?! |
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Post by scumbum on Oct 12, 2013 11:55:19 GMT -6
Dang those are nice ! They have wheels and built so freakn solid . I can't think of a third droid name .......R2D2 , C3PO and..........Steve ?? I like the 3 stooges better anyways . So where are you gonna place them ? Do you put them around the drum set ? Thanx scum! good question, they really sound amazing! you can go up and sing directly into them, or play your acoustic in front of them, and very audibly hear a kind of "sparkle"? hard to explain, but awesome! They are going to have the equivalent of R60 insulation absorbers on the backsides, i plan on surrounding my drum kit with the absorbers toward the kit, behind mics to gobble up reflections back into the mics, and hopefully block/diffuse direct sound back into the room mics(by taking longer to get there?) as to trick all the mics into hearing a bigger room? I'm also building a rolling absorber canopy out of aluminum, approx 8'x8', with 12" of cotton insulation on the lid, to remove the ceiling without killing the entire ceiling, it's all about making a 20'x 14'averagex 8' ceiling room, sound like ?'x ?'x ? ceiling?? remains to be seen lol! I have a lot of experimentation ahead, it's going to be fun, and i think i can pull it off?! Sounds like you got a pretty good plan for fooling the mics ! You need to post some before after clips when your done . Heres Eric Valentine's drumbrella . He has a remote control to raise and lower it .  |
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Post by tonycamphd on Oct 12, 2013 12:16:37 GMT -6
yeah, i've seen that, i have plans to build a robotic mic placement arm inspired by him. I'm not down with the concave shape of his drumbrella though, i would have convex shaped it, focusing reflections back into the mics seems like a bad idea to me? but i've never messed with it, so i'm purely speculating. My drum canopy will move no higher than 8' lol!
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Post by jazznoise on Oct 15, 2013 18:32:25 GMT -6
 So I finally took the photo! Here it is set up in the spare room in my parent's house. The mounting consists of some of those rings you get for plumbers pipe mounted on the back and hooked around a PA speaker stand. A pair of wooden wedges to fill the gaps and presto, works a treat. It's not perfectly square, and all the cuts are not the same size. Also there's some section I meant to cut off before gluing and forgot, and my jigsaw won't get any closer to the study. I recommend not using sort of broken circular saws for the job in general.. However, I do believe it de-quantizes the layout I used nicely. Sort of like an incompetent carpenter based dither. |
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Post by tonycamphd on Oct 15, 2013 19:01:21 GMT -6
So I finally took the photo! Nice! you left one thing out, what's you impression on how it affects sound? |
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Post by jazznoise on Oct 16, 2013 4:25:15 GMT -6
Well I had it set up behind my EV635a which I had on my cab last week, and it definitely changed the sound (noticed by accident, had my headphones on and when I was getting my monitor levels I could heard after I hit a hard note a little trail, was gonna check the reverb settings on the amp but...look who was there!). Actually, it was sort of a bother as my new takes didn't match the ones I'd done the week before! Kept it anyway. I hadn't ever heard my bedroom, which is relatively big, having a slight tail as it's mostly full of soft furniture - a bed, a fold out couch, curtains. But with the diffuser there was definitely a nice decay on the recordings. It was subtle change, but nice. I'd really feel to know the difference that I would need more of them - a 2 foot by 2 foot just doesn't take up that much space compared to hard walls. I tried it in our tiny ass hallway and while I felt it helped reduce the considerable flutter echo, it wasn't very effective. As I mentioned in another thread, I might be going back to my University working. I think they've a table saw in the Engineer department. If I could get them to cut me those stud lengths for another 3..well, I'd be a very happy researcher indeed.  |
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Post by tonycamphd on Oct 16, 2013 9:14:25 GMT -6
cool! anymore than a total of 4 of those, you need to make an "inverse" period, otherwise you get lobe-ing at certain frequencies, you probably already knew this, mentioned just in case you did not.
T
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Post by jazznoise on Oct 17, 2013 7:41:26 GMT -6
I was indeed aware though I don't intend to make a single array. I assume it doesn't matter outside the context of a diffuser array? They're for location recording, so it's more a "damage control" scenario.  |
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Post by Johnkenn on Oct 21, 2013 20:55:19 GMT -6
Wanna build Daddy some? |
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Post by jazznoise on Oct 22, 2013 11:12:16 GMT -6
I'm not sure what the shipping on a 20Kg lump of wood is from Ireland to the US, but I bet it's more than my Bill of Materials!
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Post by tonycamphd on Oct 22, 2013 12:30:33 GMT -6
Wanna build Daddy some? lmao! Jk throws it out there like a fishing lore.. |
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Post by tasteliketape on Nov 5, 2013 21:13:21 GMT -6
hope this isnt a stupid question but when I buy 2x2 they are 1.5 so when i lay the pattern on a 24x24 plywood I'm short so do i make it 18x18 or what rip2x6? thanks
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Post by tonycamphd on Nov 6, 2013 1:18:20 GMT -6
hope this isnt a stupid question but when I buy 2x2 they are 1.5 so when i lay the pattern on a 24x24 plywood I'm short so do i make it 18x18 or what rip2x6? thanks 2x6 are still only 1.5 wide, 2x2's are 1.5x1.5, you need to reduce lengths proportionally, or not, shouldn't matter much, it will just change the range a bit, you could use qrd dude, install your parameters, and it will give you new length for your pieces. |
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Post by svart on Nov 25, 2013 9:25:57 GMT -6
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Post by winetree on Nov 25, 2013 11:52:24 GMT -6
I had the same problem. No luck so I finally decided to raise the ceiling. Had to move gas and water lines, new sub panel and extend electrical lines. New 2x10" ceiling joists so I could remove the roof trusses. Just finishing the outer shell with green glue and drywall between the studs. Wiring is next. Lots more to do.  |
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Post by tonycamphd on Dec 2, 2013 10:54:16 GMT -6
I had the same problem. No luck so I finally decided to raise the ceiling. Had to move gas and water lines, new sub panel and extend electrical lines. New 2x10" ceiling joists so I could remove the roof trusses. Just finishing the outer shell with green glue and drywall between the studs. Wiring is next. Lots more to do. wow! cool man, dywall between studs? do you mean you filled the bays solid? that is some bazar framing, usually it's single member balloon framed or platform framed with a floor between levels? your place is gonna sound much better i'm sure, i would still consider insulation in the rafters, and cloth material for coverage(no hard ceiling surface)? |
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Post by winetree on Dec 3, 2013 16:50:51 GMT -6
Tony, Yea there was a real high unused roof line availible. It was just attic space. I have the same thing on the other side that is the control room. That space is totally traped above with a cloth ceiling.
There's just 1 layer of 5/8" drywall green glued between the studs leaving about 3". I'm going to use resiliant channel adding about a 1/2" and filling it in with 3" Roxul Safe and Sound before the drywall.
There also 1 layer of green glued 5/8" drywall between the roof rafters. I'm going to forgo the 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the ceiling (Saving cost and effort) and go with 6" of safe and sound between the 2x10"s with a 3" airgap. I'm thinking on the ceiling, a layer of plastic covered with slatted wood, making for good reflection and absortion. I'll try the ceiling dead first.
Doing the wiring now, just got 10 batts of safe and sound today for the ceiling. Lots more work.
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Post by tonycamphd on Dec 3, 2013 19:48:21 GMT -6
Tony, Yea there was a real high unused roof line availible. It was just attic space. I have the same thing on the other side that is the control room. That space is totally traped above with a cloth ceiling. There's just 1 layer of 5/8" drywall green glued between the studs leaving about 3". I'm going to use resiliant channel adding about a 1/2" and filling it in with 3" Roxul Safe and Sound before the drywall. There also 1 layer of green glued 5/8" drywall between the roof rafters. I'm going to forgo the 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the ceiling (Saving cost and effort) and go with 6" of safe and sound between the 2x10"s with a 3" airgap. I'm thinking on the ceiling, a layer of plastic covered with slatted wood, making for good reflection and absortion. I'll try the ceiling dead first. Doing the wiring now, just got 10 batts of safe and sound today for the ceiling. Lots more work. excellent man! exciting stuff for sure, you should look into the ultratouch cotton fiber insulation, the stuff works great, and you can sleep on it...very comfortable to work with. Be sure you don't short out that resilient channel, it works awesome if done perfectly, but one screw badly placed, it's a fail.. Also, if you use a hard surface flooring, with good opposing wall surfaces, the ceiling being dead always sounds great in a cutting room IMO good luck and keep us posted...maybe with more pics...i love this stuff. |
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Post by subhumanrecords on Mar 25, 2014 4:54:09 GMT -6
Started my QRD for back wall. Alot of cutting I might say. M.. Recording 2 inches @ a Time(plus PT) |
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Post by jazznoise on Mar 25, 2014 7:43:25 GMT -6
Started my QRD for back wall. Alot of cutting I might say. M.. Recording 2 inches @ a Time(plus PT) Looks great! I spray painted mine afterwards, but your way looks good. Did you cut the pieces and stain them afterwards? |
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Post by subhumanrecords on Mar 26, 2014 0:26:51 GMT -6
I cut them and then stained them. The next one I started I stained 1st then cut. Alot easier and quicker
Recording 2 inches @ a Time(plus PT)
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Post by Johnkenn on Mar 26, 2014 18:52:30 GMT -6
Started my QRD for back wall. Alot of cutting I might say. M.. Recording 2 inches @ a Time(plus PT) Looks great! But the blocks are much too close together in my opinion... |
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Post by subhumanrecords on Mar 27, 2014 15:29:42 GMT -6
I followed the block diagram from from the bbc documents. I hope there not to close together.
Recording 2 inches @ a Time(plus PT)
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Post by jazznoise on Mar 27, 2014 16:33:14 GMT -6
It's a joke. John first attempt had special air gaps left for..reasons.
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Post by subhumanrecords on Mar 29, 2014 18:30:05 GMT -6
Thank god.lol.. 3 more built and doing what they do best. Now to build some absorbers with Corning 703, by the way. Corning is expensive.
Recording 2 inches @ a Time(plus PT)
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